That's when Jewish bakers supposedly came up with a Trojan horse strategy for their Crostata di ricotta e visciole. They were also banned from many business pursuits, including the selling of cheese. Silversmiths were not permitted to forge menorah, the nine-branched candelabra used for religious rituals Jewish men and women had to wear a piece of yellow cloth stitched to their hat similarly to when Jews were forced to wear the Star of David during World War Two they couldn't talk to Christians and they couldn't light the traditional torches used to honour their dead on the way from the synagogue to the cemetery during funerary rites. The Church believed that Christianity had to replace Hebraism, and they did all they could to make Jewish people's lives impossible. "It's just another item in a long list of humiliations," explained Vatican expert Iacopo Scaramuzzi. Ruben, whose recipe for the tart is featured in his new book, Cucina Con Ruben, believes that it was designed to bypass an absurd ban on selling cheese and dairy products imposed on Jews by the Vatican in the 18th Century as outlined in Chapter XXIV of Pope Pius VI's Edict Concerning the Jews (1775). But the case of the Crostata di ricotta e visciole goes one step further in ingenuity. The art of doing a lot with a little is at the heart of most Roman-Jewish recipes. "It is a stratagem, a work of trickery," said Ruben Bondì, a Roman Jewish chef, who became famous for his TikTok and Instagram videos in which he leans out of a balcony and asks his neighbours, "What do you want to eat?" He then prepares anything from salt cod roll sandwiches to zucchini risotto in a makeshift kitchen set up on top of an air-conditioning unit, often with the help of his little nephew, cousin or sister. The iconic Crostata di ricotta e visciole (ricotta and sour cherry tart) is the perfect example – with a creamy layer of sweet whey cheese, generous coating of jam and thick shortcrust concealing a secret. In Rome, even something as proverbially simple as a "piece of cake" – or tart – can have hidden layers of history, resilience and even mischief tucked away between the crust and the cream.
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